El Burro - ASD Gesha

MEET THE PRODUCER | For four generations and over a hundred years, the Lamastus family has been making its passion for coffee a bonafide family tradition. What started with a man named Robert Lamastus in 1918 has catapulted to an innumerable number of awards, prizes, and accolades under the leadership of his grandson, Wilford Lamastus, Sr., and his great-grandson, our dear friend, Wilford Jr. 

Founded by Robert in 1918, Elida Estate is the flagship farm in the Lamastus fleet, and it is perhaps the most well-known today. But there are two other plantations in the Panamanian highlands which bear the Lamastus family name: Luito Estate, and the origin story of today's black label release, El Burro Estate. 

El Burro is located in the southernmost coffee-growing region of Panama, and part of it sits inside the Baru Volcano National Park (BVNP). This location is important for a few reasons: first, because of its protected status within BVNP, coffees being produced at El Burro come from some of the most undisturbed farmland in all of Panama. It is surrounded by native, cloudy rainforest, and the crop benefits tremendously from the fresh volcanic soil supplied by Volcano Baru. Additionally, the high altitude of the farm amidst this lush backdrop lends itself to particularly advantageous coffee-growing conditions: the climate is very dry during the dry season and very wet during the wet season, causing extended ripening times for El Burro's most beloved lots: Gesha.

TRUST THE PROCESS | The unique terroir in which this coffee grows is heavily responsible for its equally unique - and utterly distinguished - flavor profile. However, it is the slow, steady, and careful way this lot was processed that elevates it above others at our cupping table. In this specific method of anaerobic processing (called Anaerobic Slow Dry, or ASD), the coffee is anaerobically fermented at elevation for 168 hours before being sun-dried on raised beds. This style of fermentation requires a very careful and discerning hand, and the Lamastus family has executed it beautifully.

TAKE A SIP | When hot, this coffee has a delightfully floral aroma, like magnolias. It's boozy and sweet at this temperature, reminding us of ruby port, or sherry. The citrus character here is something like blood oranges, and interesting notes like cocoa nib, cooked mango, and even blue razz can also be perceived. 

As the coffee approaches a pleasantly warm temperature, acidity increases and the flavors become more spiced, transforming that boozy character into something like red sangria. Blood orange gives way to orange zest, and that cooked mango becomes more fresh and sweet, like mango candy. More tropical flavors, like lychee, become apparent at this temperature. Cocoa nib remains steadfast.

When cool, acidity peaks as the booziness settles into something more like a crisp white sangria than a juicy red one. That orange-like citrus character tastes like orange juice here, and a new flavor - cranberry! - also emerges. Cocoa nib still lingers even at this temperature, although it's become more subtle here.

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Origin | El Burro Estate, Boquete, Panama

Producer | Lamastus Family Estates

Farm | El Burro Estate

Process |  ASD (Anaerobic Slow Dry)

Variety | Gesha

Elevation | 1600-1750 masl